2005 honda civic ac compressor replacement

so i brought my brand new 2023 versa sr today and i absolutely love it! i got it to replace my totaled 2015 honda civic lx.
when it arrived it hasn’t gone through the shop as it just got off the truck but the service department made me a exception to take the versa into the shop to get it detailed and ready to be sold as the service department was about to close.
the headlights does work as it passed the state inspection but i’ve noticed in the auto position the dlr’s didn’t come on but in the off position they come on. in my civic (it was a base model) so i didn’t have auto lights so my dlr’s on my civic was always on.
is it normal in nissan’s for the dlr’s to be off when it’s in the auto position? just so i can know if i need to take it in to be checked out

I had my ac belt break a few weeks ago, just got around to replacing it today. The old belt was dry rotted and crack, but when installing the new one the belt tensioner was also seized. I replace the belt tensioner and the ac belt. After driving home from my buddys house the new ac belt snapped. The ac compressor pulley spins freely when engine is off. Is the ac compressor the culprit when under pressure or was the ac belt just misaligned when installed?

Got my ac system recharged due to having to replace the compressor. The shop filled the system with R1234yf instead of manufacturer recommended R134a. Is this something that could cause problems and need fixing? Or could I just leave it as is?

Howdy! So my 2005 Honda Accord starting shaking about a year ago and I just started to try and resolve the issue. The car shakes between 60-65mph and stops shaking once the car gets faster than 65.
A couple months ago, I got brand new tires put on my car at Costco and let them know about the issue, so they also rebalanced my wheels. The car still shook, so I called them up and they said it was probably an alignment issue and that they don't do alignments. So I took my car to Les Schwab to get my car realigned. While the car was up, they noticed that one of the control arms needed replaced, so they did that, as well as realigned the car. The car still shook and Les Schwab said it was a balance issue then. So I took my car back to Costco and they rebalanced the car again. Car still shakes.
Assuming everything's been repaired correctly up to this point, what's the next step I should take for triaging this issue? Any idea what could be causing the shake? Thank ya kindly!

Hi all, I got a 2005 AWD Element last year and it's been a blessing so far, except for one recurring issue.
My VTech keeps malfunctioning, no matter how many times I replace it. First, I had it replaced when I was living in New York and the guys put the wrong size bolt on it with like 13 washers and it was all messed up so it malfunctioned again (after I drove across the entire country). Then I got it replaced by a fancy car shop that my family friends took me to, and it worked well for a few months. Now, the check engine light is coming on again and it's doing the SAME thing -- kicking back when I go over ~60 mph or over ~2500 rpm.
Is there anything specific I should tell the next mechanic I bring it to? I am so exhausted by the dumb VTech oil pressure sensor, man. I feel like I need to get a bumper sticker that says "pass me, my Honda VTech oil pressure is malfunctioning again" because it comes on at random times and I have to drive 55mph down the freeway.
Any suggestions/thoughts would be much appreciated! Thanks :)

Why do 07 Honda civic’s have drum brakes in the rear and not rotors+Calipers. How difficult it is to replace them?

it possible with plugins to get chatgpt to browse the pages within this link, https://charm.li/ , to help you diagnosis an issue with any car listed within?
For instance, after introducing the link could I say. Provide me suggestions with a 2005 Honda civic not starting.

I had my pads and rotors replaced last year.
About a month ago my car started making noises when I braked at low speeds. This was right after i took my winter tired off and put on my summer tired.
The bearings on my car were cracked and the mechanic said this is the reason for the noise. They replaced the bearings and there is no more noise but on the drive home the noise is still present and seems worse.
Car is a 2015 Honda Civic EX.
Does anyone know what this sound can be? Attached is a video of the sound when braking at low speed coming to a complete stop.

My wife and I are considering the purchase of a small SUV. Our current targets include the Honda CR-V, Toyota RAV4, and the Mazda CX-5. My question relates to how much work can an owner do these vehicles to avoid going to the stealership?
In 2007 we purchased a Honda Civic from a local dealership. In almost 16 years of ownership, it has been to the service department twice, once for a defect and the second for a possible coolant leak. In 16 years we have never had to pay for work to be done to the car. I replaced the water pump when a leak was noted. I renew the engine oil as needed. I renewed the manual tranny fluid as required. I replaced the brake and clutch fluid as needed. I can do these tasks, and others ... I was just wondering which of these OEMs have designed their vehicles so that owners can complete them, themselves. I am aware that some OEMs have overly designed their vehicles so that only the stealership can work on them.
Thank you!

We received a notice from the property manager of a house we own that AC stopped working and needed repairs. It's a Bosch 20+ SEER which is 3-4 years old, which if I understand correctly, should still be under a 10-year warranty. We are brand new property owners, and the unit was installed by the previous owner, so I don't know much about it. I'm perfectly happy to pay whatever is necessary to take care of our tenants, but the PM's explanations are not quite adding up for me. I'm honestly not even sure what, if any, additional questions I should be asking at this point, or whether I should just agree to the lower quote.
They provided me with two quotes for the work done. The first message was this, "Upon inspecting the HVAC system, the vendor determined that the compressor and inverter board have become faulty, and the condenser is low on freon. In order to resolve the issue the vendor will replace the compressor and inverter board, and recharge the condenser with 10-12lbs of freon. The vendor said that because the freon runs through the compressor and it burned out, the freon has become contaminated. If they reuse the same freon in the new compressor it would damage it. The total cost for the scope of work to be completed is $2,662.25."
Regarding the second quote, they said, "The [2nd] vendor will replace the compressor under warranty and recharge the condenser with 10lbs of freon. The total cost for the scope of work to be completed is $4,364.25."
Regarding the overall high cost of repairs, they said, "The current system is roughly 3-4 years old. The make and model of the system is Bosch 20+ SEER system with inverter technology and communicating system, which is one of Bosch's top of the line systems. This has resulted in the repairs being substantially more expensive than what we typically would see. "
I commented that top-of-the-line products usually also have top-of-the-line warranties, and asked them to explain why a unit that is still under warranty should cost so much to repair. I also asked them to clarify the difference between the two quotes and they said they following, "The compressor is the part that is under warranty. The freon and inverter board unfortunately are not. As for the difference in cost between the two vendors, that comes down to the parts not under warranty and what they charge for labor." I then asked which documentation they referred to to determine which parts are and are not covered under the warranty, and they haven't gotten back to me, yet.
Can anyone help me better understand what's going on here, especially given Bosch's warranty? I really appreciate any help, as I know next to nothing on this topic, but I really want to learn.

I have a 2005 Honda Civic and I just hit 180,000 miles. Car runs great other than it burning through a little bit of oil. I top it off as needed but its not a crazy amount. I was looking for some advice on some things I should be doing to get the most life out of this car. I keep up on oil changes but are there things I don't know about that I should be doing at this point to keep her going? Timing belt was replaced at 150,000 miles.

So I’m following a video on how to diagnose AC issues and I see that my compressor isn’t getting power. In the video that wasn’t the issue and it wasn’t discussed what to do if it failed the test. Looking at the thing I don’t see how to replace it without cutting pipes. Anyway I thought I’d check in here for advice before moving on. Any help would be appreciated.

I’ve recharged the system and it worked 2 times and then stopped, I did recharge it to the vehicles specifications, please help I live in Texas

My York AC (all in one unit on the roof, guessing around 15 years old?) just started behaving strangely with the blower side. During the on cycle, the blower fan is working at full speed and the house is cooled to the target temperature. When the thermostat kicks off, the condenser fan and compressor turn off, as expected. The blower fan also turns off (mostly) shortly after, as expected. However, while waiting for the thermostat to switch on again, the blower fan is constantly, but very slightly, blowing air, from pretty much no air, to a slight breeze, then less breeze, then off, then repeat.
Very strange because this isn't a variable speed system and it has never done this before.
One other note: Just before this started to happen, the blower fan was making a whistling-ish sound. That sound has gone away and everything seems normal during the on cycle. Its just the off cycle that is abnormal (very low variable blower fan speed).
Its driving me batty trying to sleep while the vent filters keep sucking up, then releasing, repeat.
Thoughts?
Edit1: This house had another York (house has two AC units) that died a couple years ago. It was replaced with a Bosch variable speed system. I vaguely remember the AC guy saying that the York was an ECM for the blower. So, when I said above that this isn't a variable speed system, I was thinking of a DC inverter style variable speed. Pretty sure it is ECM, as mentioned in a comment below.
Update 1: I replaced the thermostat. Problem still occurs. When the thermostat is set to "auto", during the off cycle (when target temp is reached, after compressor, blower and condenser fan shut off), something is causing the blower to fluctuate on and off. Blower kicks on, blows a small breeze for about 2 to 4 seconds, then switches off for about 4 to 8 seconds, then repeats. It never used to do this, in any mode ("auto" or "fan on"). Also, if I turn from "Cool" to "off", then the fluctuation stops, same as unplugging the thermostat. Gremlins sure are exciting sometimes lol. -- An appointment is scheduled for next week with an AC tech. I'll post an update with what he finds. Though, I'm sure that as soon as he shows up, the gremlins will take a rest haha.

1998 Chevy S10 LS V6 2WD extended cab truck, 103,000 miles
^{^} bought this truck for cheap knowing AC would only blow out barely-cold-mostly-lukewarm air. Took to bf’s step dad who did tests under the hood and said clutch is bad so AC compressor should be replaced. Cool.
Except, last night I was playing with the temperature control knob on dash, and realized there is no heat either. Air blows out at the same temp regardless of settings.
Is this still an AC compressor fix, or do I need to reevaluate for other issues? I have a friend who has replaced a few before and was going to do it for me if I got the part, but I know literally nothing about cars on my own and don’t want to go on a wild goose chase if I don’t have to. Thank you for your help 🙏

I have a 2005 subaru outback 2.5i with 175,000 miles on it. Went to Jiffy Lube to get a recharge for my AC after it stopped blowing cold air. They showed me a part that’s leaking coolant and told me I would have to get the O-ring replaced to stop that and so I did. Now my car makes a click noise every ten seconds or so- kinda sounds like a ‘spurt’. I notice it when I first turn my car on and am sitting there for a minute, and when I accelerate. It probably makes the noise when I drive too, but my car is loud from the inside so I wouldn’t hear it. Is this related to the AC and something Jiffy Lube did or is a totally separate problem?

I have a Honda civic 2018 Lx, took to a mechanic for just the rear brake pad/ rotor replacements. 3 days after the replacement, the car starting flashing 3 different brake problems on the dash but still drove normally. Took the car in yesterday to the same place and they told me there was a broken caliber. Wondering if the brake replacement could have had anything to do with this because the calipers were said to be fine before it. Thank you